MOUNT HUA

     With the Yellow River to the north and Qinling Mountain Range at the back to the south, Mount Hua stands in the south of Huayin County, 120 kilometers east of Xi’an, with an altitude of 2,200 meters. It is always known for its precipitousness.

    There are five peaks of Mount Hua: the Morning Sun Peak, the Lotus Flower Pear, the Jade Lady Pear, the Wild Goose-resting Pear and the Cloudy Terrace Peak. From a distance, these five peaks look like a lotus flowers among the mountains, hence the name of Mount Hua (Hua means flower in Chinese).

    As the saying goes “There has been only one path up Mount Hua since ancient tines,” this road runs for some 20 kilometers, around five prominent peaks. This trail passes a number of perilous places: the Thousand-foot Precipice, the Hundred-foot Crevice, Laojun’s Furrow (Laojun, the patriarch of Taoism.), the Heavenward Ladder and the Blue Dragon Ridge. The Cliffside Path and the reaching the top, visitors can enjoy the awesome grandeur of these peaks. The peaks are peculiar, the cliffs are steep, and the path is difficult and dangerous. All are so extraordinary as if they were created by spirits. The sights and situations make climbers tremble with fear, but gasp in admiration, too. The ancient buildings are one of the main attractions. The peaks and valleys are dotted with temples and pavilions, which are constantly clad in mist. Climbers feel as if they were making a tour of fairyland.

 The Yuquan Garden

 Yuquan Garden (Jade Spring Garden) is located at the entrance of the valley on the hillside north of Mount Hua. It is the starting point to go to the top. Inside the garden there is a cool, sweet spring; hence its name “Jade Spring Garden.” The spring is said to come from an underground flow that runs from the Jade Well in the Zhenyue Tenple. The old pines border the winding paths, and give deep shade. Legend has it that Chen Tuan, a hermit in the five Dynasty Period (907-960),built the gardens, terraces, towers and pavilions. Restoration was carried out during Emperor Qian Long’s reign in the Qing Dynasty, which makes the whole garden look nice and beautiful today. The stone tablets are inscribed with valuable calligraphy.

The Qingke Terrace

     The path, from the Jade Spring Garden to Qingke Terrace, is about ten kilometers in length. This zigzag path is flanked by steep cliffs and paved with stone slabs. Halfway up this winding path, you will feel exhausted and want to turn back before the actual climb begins. When you arrive at Qingke Terrace, the ravine path comes to an end and a beautiful view suddenly makes it all worthwhile. Here you can take a short break and look around Dongdao and Tongxian temples. Another steep climb from Qingke Terrace is ahead of you.

 The North Peak

     The North Peak is also called the Cloudy Terrace Peak. As you continue your way from Qingke Terrace, you will soon pass a huge rock named “Turn Back,” and you will find yourself at the bottom of the Thousand-foot Precipice. This precipice is cut into the face of a nearly perpendicular cliff. The steps there are only toeholds, and you will have to grasp iron chains for support. The upper part of the precipice is shaped like an opening to a cave. A large sheet of iron could well block your way completely, if it were placed there. To put it vividly, if one man were guarding the pass at this point, 1,000 people would be unable to get though. After the Hundred-foot Crevice, you ascend to Laojun’s Furrow. It is also cut into the cliff. You will feel that the furrow must be ascending right up into the sky. Nearly 500 steps are hewn up from the bottom part of the furrow. Legend has it that Lao Zi, the founder of Taoism, once drove his ox to this place and ploughed the furrow in only one night. At the end of the furrow, he is said to have hung his plough. By and by you will finally reach the North Peak. It is the only access to the other four peaks. The North Peak has only one hill that leads to the south with three sides disconnected with anywhere, and it is fairly steep. Here again, you can see a few lonely temples.

The Candlong Ridge

    The Canglong (Blue Dragon) Ridge was also known as Ni Ridge or Jia Ridge in ancient times. It is 1,500 meters long and only one meter wide. This ridge winds up and down irregularly with its central part protruding into the air looks rather like the backbone of a carp. On either side of the ridge, cliffs fall off into deep valleys. Looking across into the distance, you will get a misty view of green pines and floating clouds. You will hear the wind roaring into your ears. You may be so filled with apprehension ad dizziness that you may fear to look at the view on either side. At the other end of the ridge is Yishen Cliff, which is inscribed with five Chinese characters: “Han Yu Threw Down His Will”. The story goes that Han Yu, a Tang Dynasty poet, once reached this spot. He was in such fear that he concluded that his end was at hand threw down his last will on that very spot. Fortunately, he was rescued. If you determine to ascend to the Canglong Ridge, you cannot avoid either the Ear-touching Cliff or the Heavenward Ladder on your way up.

The Central Peak

The Central Peak is called the Jade Lady Peak. Legend has it that Nong Yu, the daughter of King Mu of the spring and Autumn Period, was so moved by the music which Xiao Shi, a hermit, played on a vertical bamboo flute, that she gave up living a happy and luxurious palace life, and together with Xiao Shi, flew here on the backs of a dragon and a phoenix and lived in seclusion. The Jade Lady’s Cave, the Wash Basin, the Stone Dressing Table and the Phoenix Pavilion are what we can see there today.

 The East Peak

     The East Peak is also called the Morning Sun Peak. It is the best place from which to see the sunrise. The peak shoots dramatically up into the sky. Therefore, both the ascent and the descent are difficult and dangerous. You can stand on the peak, look far to the south, and you will see faint wave of mountains of Qinling Mountain Range. As you look down, you will also get a misty view of the vast fields and the blending waters of the Huanghe and Weihe rivers. Every morning the fiery red sun rises gradually over the roaring might of these two rivers. At this moment, the view is splendid: the vast sky, the wavy mountain and the deep valleys. On the side at one cliff there is the impression of a huge hand colored in a mixture of blue and brown. The story goes like this: Mount Hua was originally linked to the Zhongtiao Mountains. Together they blocked the flow of the Huanghe River. With his hand, the God of Strength split the mountain into two, and made a way for the river to pass, consequently leaving the print of his hand on the cliff. It is known as “God’s Hand Print on Mount Hua.” It is the first among the Eight Scenic Attractions of the Central Shaanxi Plain. Beside, there is more scenery around here such as the Sweet Dew Pool and Qingxu Cave. The Chess Pavilion and the Sparrow Hawk’s Cliff, which are close to the peak, are so dangerously situated that only those with enough courage are able to reach them.

The South Peak

    The South Peak (Wild Goose-resting Peak) is situated at an elevation of 2,200 meters. It towers over all other peaks on the mountain. It is covered by pines and cypresses that provide deep shade, and extend for several miles. The top of the peak is a bare rock. Here there is no grass, and the wind is always strong. It can be reached only through crawling. When you ascend to its summit, and look down, you can only feel that “there is only the vast sky overhead, and no other peaks anywhere that can reach the same height.” This huge rock carries inscriptions carved by men of letters of various periods of time. The building on the South Peak is named the Golden Heaven Temple (also known as the White Emperor’s Temple). According to the legend, Laojun’s Cave at the top is the very place where Lao Zi once lived as a hermit. To the north of the cave is the Taishang Spring. Its water is dark blue, and never runs dry at any time of the year. The spring is also known as “Heavenward Pond”. Descending eastward, you will notice the Cliffside Path. This path juts out from the cliff and is as narrow as eight inches. Iron bars have been fixed into the cliff to support the marble slabs which make this path. So even those with much courage have to grasp the iron chains firmly, hold their breath and try to walk along steadily. The remnants of Lao Zi’s Summit, the Immortality-pill-making Furnace and the Eight Diagrams Pit (eight combinations of three whole or broken lines formerly used in divination) can also be seen at the top.

The West Peak

    Because of a huge lotus flower-shaped rock which stands in front of Cuiyun Temple (Jade Green Cloudy Terrace Temple) at the top, the West Peak is known as Lotus Flower Peak. Its sheer steepness best exemplifies the characteristics of Mount Hua. Li Bai, a Tang-Dynasty poet, once wrote a few lines to eulogize the mountain:

       Oh, what a mountain, so lofty and steep!

       The Huanghe River, like a silk thread,

       Flows hither from the horizon.

       Full of vitality is the mountain,

       Above a terrace of clouds, as though,

       The White Emperor’s spirit descended.

       In accordance with the fairy table “Lotus Lantern,” West Peak is the place where litle Chen Xiang, son of Holy Mother III, split the mountain to rescue his mother. Close to Cuiyun Temple lies a huge rock which seems to have been split into two with an axe; hence its name “Rock Split with an Axe.” Not far off stands a long-handled axe which is said to have been used by this filial son. At the top the peak lies another prominent rock. It is called the Star-picking Rock. The northern side of the peak is characterized by perpendicular cliffs of great height. It is known as Life-abandoning Cliff. Hawks soar here and there, and clouds and mist drift above the peak. Looking far into the distance, you can get a misty view of the Central Shaanxi Plain, and suddenly you will feel completely relaxed and happy.

       Thanks to the safety and protection measures already taken, Mount Hua is now becoming more accessible to visitors both local and foreign, with the aid of cable cars.

The Temple at Mount Hua

       In the past, Mount Hua was regarded as mountain of divinity and the temple, which lies seven kilometers north of it, served as a place for the emperors of different dynasties to hold sacrificial ceremonies for the God of Mount Hua. In 1988, this temple was categorized as national monument. Since then, it has become a favorable tourist attraction.

       The custom of building temples for the sacrifice to a mountain initiated in the times of Emperor Han Dynasty. Mount Hua uses to be regarded as god by all the dynasties. Therefore, the temple of Mount Hua became the place for the sacrifice to the God of Mount Hua after it was built in 134 B.C.. With the restoration of the temple by each dynasty, the present setup took shape in 1779 of the Qing Dynasty. Through over 2,000 years’ development and expansion, the Temple of Mount Hua covers an area of about 119,880 square meters now. The walls, 1,825 meters long and 8 meters high, are the most magnificent walls among the temples of the Five Mountains (Mount Tai, Mount Hua, Mount Song, Mount Heng and Mount Henng). The standards of the construction of the temple are so high that it looks like the Imperial Palace of Beijing, hence the name “Small Imperial Palace.”

       The Temple of Mount Hua is the only sacrificial temple among the temples of the Five Mountains and it faces south and the highest peak of the mountain. As far as the overall layout is concerned, the front is narrow and the back wide. The complex looks low in the front and high at the back with Wanshou Palace at the highest spot. Stand here, you will see the highest peak of Mount Hua in the south, which is on the same axial line with the main constructions, such as Phoenix Tower, the Main Hall and the Imperial Study. This line is exactly the axis of the temple which extends to the highest peak of Mount Hua. Stand anywhere on the axis, you can see the five peaks of Mount Hua.

    Since the Temple of Mount Hua used to be the sacrificial temple for the imperial families and a necessary stop for the inspection tours of emperors, the location of this temple was carefully chosen. It is located on a vast plain with the highest peak of Mount Hua in front and Weihe River, the Yellow River and the Luohe River merged together at back. If anything unexpected happens, it is safe to retreat through either the land or the rivers.